Brassiere



Sept. 8, 1953 w. ROSENTHAL BRASSIERE 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed May 15 1951 IN VEN TOR.

HZTOZE/VEK.

Sept. 8, 1953 w. ROSENTHAL BRASSIERE 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed May 15, 1951 latented Sept. 8, 1953 UNITED STATES PATENT 1 Claim. 1

The present invention has special utility for decollete brassieres, rendering shoulder straps unnecessary and at the same time eliminating the necessity for wires or other rigid elements heretofore found necessary at the marginal areas of the pockets in lieu of applying thermoplastic to the fabric of the pockets and molding them under heat and pressure to retain their shapes. Both of the said currently employed expedients have manifest disadvantages.

The invention will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings which illustrate an embodiment having a relatively short band formation, it being understood that the vertical height from base to pockets may be increased so that the construction may be of medium band or long band type:

Figure 1 is a view in front elevation, partly broken away, illustrating an embodiment of the invention and showing exterior lines of stitching which extend from front face to inner face of each pocket of cup;

Figure 2 is a longitudinal section taken on the line 2-2 of Figure 1;

Figure 3 is a vertical section taken on the line 3-3 of Figure 1;

Figure 4 is a plan View showing a layer of stiffening material, broken lines bounding the outer half section of one of the cups as to the lining blank therefore, the lining blank being broken away toward its lower end;

Figure 5 shows the structure of Figure 4 with parallel lines of stitching which join and reinforce the stiffening and lining members;

Figure 6 is a plan view showing the structure of Figure 5 having added thereto an outer cover, an additional run of substantially parallel lines of stitching extending through the cover and thence through both stiffening and lining.

Figure '7 is a partial transverse section on the line 'i'! of Figure 1;

Figure 8 is a partial longitudinal section on the line 8-8 of Figure 1.

fhe brassiere is preferably two-ply, and is characterized by the provision of a stiffening material between the plies, the latter rising from the base of each pocket or cup to the upper margin thereof, the cups as to outer and imier plies and the intermediate stiffening material being reinforced in a special manner, to wit, by closely spaced lines of stitching extending in one direction through the stiffening material and the lining, together with lines of stitching extending substantiall at right angles thereto and uniting and reinforcing the stiffening material, the cover,

and the lining. In this manner the cups are adequate supporting and restraining elements and at the same time are free from marginal wires or the provision of molded plastic.

As a further characteristic, a vertically extending bone is applied at the seam between the two sections of each pocket and which terminates at the apex of each pocket centrally thereof, or substantially so, leaving the pocket above its apex more yielding and the bone in one function serving as a fulcrum over which the pocket gracefully curves inward.

Referring to the drawing, it will be seen that the elements of the embodiment therein shown consist of two pocket members each having an inner section I and a larger outer section 2 the pocket members carrying back-bands 3 provided as usual with means for connecting them. As customary each back-band may have an elastic section, such expedient not being within the invention.

Inasmuch as the two sections of each cup are alike as to the elements and reinforcement stitching, and differ only in shape, a description of one section will suffice for both. I will therefore describe the formation of the outer cup section shown at the left of Figure l. The first step is to cut a lining material 4 to the forms shown in Figures 4 and 5 and to lay thereon a cut piece of stiffening material 5. These two elements are united and reinforced by parallel lines of stitching as indicated at 6. Thereupon a cover piece l which may be of satin or any other suitable fabric is laid over the stiffening piece and parallel lines of stitching substantially at right angles to the first lines of stitching are extended through all of the elements, to wit, the cover 1, the stiffening 5 and the lining l. Viewed from the lining side the cup section will have the appearance of that shown in Figure 6, although in that figure the heavy dotted lines 53 merely indicate the marginal edge of the concealed stiffening member.

The two sections of each cup may then be brought together after the marginal edges of the cover and lining have been turned over and stitched down as shown at ii in Figure 8. At this stage in the assembly a bone it encased in a tape sleeve H is applied to overlap the meeting edges of the said two cup sections and the margins of the tape-sleeve as they directly abut the lining 4 are stitched through the entire structure by the stitches H2. The bone it extends upwardly to the approximate apex of the cup as shown more particularly in Figure 3; and continuing upwardly 3 and inwardly the cup rises in a gentle curve. It will be understood, that, in practice, the stitching 9 will be of such form as to closely unite the abutting edges of the two cup sections.

The two cups having thus been partly formed by the joining of their sections, in each case, the cups are now ready for connection. This connection is exactly the same as that just described with reference to Figure 8 except that the tape covered bone at the seam intermediate the two cups extend throughout the seam.

Except for decorative elements, band finishing, etc., the brassire is now ready for application of the back-band members 3. A suitable method of connection is shown in Figure 7, the outer vertical margin of the cup fabric is turned back upon itself, the appropriate back-band section is laid over said folded margin, a, bone-enclosed tape sleeve is laid over the band at said folded area of the lining and cover and all of the elements are united by the stitching 13.

The garment is finished at its lower margin by infolding the lower margin of the entire structure and-seaming it down followed by preferably applying .to the lower margin of the lining material which extends from outer edge to outer edge of the assembled cup structure, a soft facing l4, seamed longitudinally at top and bottom edges by stitching which may extend from face to face of the garment. In the embodiment shown this facing consists of soft fabric folded into sleeve formation. A decorative-edging .15 may be applied to the upper margin of the cup to cover one side of the binding I6, Figure 3.

When the garment is applied to the wearer, the tension or pull on the vertical sides of each cup, exerted through the body band, causes the upper margins of the cups to move inwardly. The vertical central boneat the joining seam for .theitwo sections of each cup, plus the formation of each multi-layer cup section, insures a natural curvature of each cup at its base. The inner and outer layers depend from the lower edge of each stiffening member as a section of the body band.

and hence each cup may rock or hinge laterally .of the vertical central bone in conformation with breast curvatures to a required limited degree, while at the same time an adequate close fit of theupper margin-of each cup is assured.

Having described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is as folows:

A brassiere comprising a pair of breast receiving cups each having a vertical edge secured together along their vertical edges, each of said cups consisting of two joined sections, the first section having a vertical edge constituting said vertical edges of said cups, an elongated sloping edge outwardly disposed and of greater length than and opposed to said vertical edge, a bottom horizontal edge and a top upwardly and outwardly curvatured edge, the second of said sections also having an elongated sloping edge outwardly disposed and adapted to abut the entire sloping :edge of said first section, an outer edge opposed to said elongated sloping edge, a bottom horizontal edge and a top downwardly and outwardly curvatured edge, a flexible bone disposed in each cup and adjacent the line of juncture of said sloping edges of said sections, a flexible bone disposed adjacent the vertical edge of said joined cups and adjacent the outer edges of each section, each of said cup sections consisting of an outer cover fabric and an inner liner fabric, both having the above described geometric shapes, as well as a stifiening material disposed between the cover and the liner at the upper half thereof, said stiffening material being sewn to said liner by a plurality of rows of substantially vertical stitching, said cover being sewn to said sewn liner and stiffening material by a plurality of arcuate downwardly disposed stitches traversing said vertical rows of stitching at substantially right angles, and a back band secured to the outer edge of each of said second cup sections and adapted for fastening to one "another.

WILLIAM ROSENTHAL.

References Cited .in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,841,960 Kunstadter .Jan..19, 1932 2,152,910 Childs Apr. 4, .1939 2,498,077 Goldberg Feb. .21, 1950 2,505,616 Goldberg Apr. 25, 1950 2,523,395 Sellarole :Sept. 26, 1950 2,535,864 Plehn Dec. 26, 1950 2,570,819 Kivo Oct. 9, 1951 

